Who Says We Dont Have Quality Beef In New England?

Archer Angus Sirloin, Carrot Puree, Baby Root Vegetables, Bordelaise Syrup

Its amazing to me that when I tell people that we are serving beef raised right here in New England that they look at me like I have 10 heads. Now I'm not claiming that we have an abundance of local beef, but in my opinion the beef that I have sourced is by far some of the tastiest & tender I have ever had the pleasure of working with.

We here in New England are very lucky, our agriculture industry is growing at a pace that no one ever thought it would. In fact Massachusetts has even had meetings with the public about too many farmers markets popping up and not enough people to frequent them. Crazy huh?! Prices have started to drop at farmers markets therefore making it an option that all of us can afford .

 I digress as usual, let me get back to BEEF... Whether you are looking for a 100% grassfed product, grain finished or superior Black Angus beef , New England has got it!

 As New Englanders we need to continue to develop a network that allows us to be self sufficient by growing more foods of our own. But one problem and probably one of the reasons that you have to search high & low and pay a premium for local land based proteins is that we do not have many slaughter houses here in New England. We have approximately 30 slaughter houses, where a state like Wisconsin has well over 200 slaughter houses.

Two of my favorite and both represented on my menus currently are,  Archer Angus out of Chesterville, Maine and Blackbird Farms in Smithfield, Rhode Island.

Both raise some amazing 100% Black Angus cattle, while Archer is almost 100% grass fed ( they work together with a co-op of farmers and some of the ground beef is grain finished)  Blackbird uses a combination, raised on pasture their grass diet is supplemented with grain, including corn, hay and essential minerals. two very different flavor profiles and fat content, both have the best beef in New England hands down!

No hormones are injected nor fed to either of the farms animals.

Traceability you wonder? They both have that covered as well! They can tell you the pedigree, birthday, how it was raised, harvest date & carcass grade.

Like most farms in our area, both are family run, both take time to build relationships with their customers and both care about the animals as much as their own pets.

And their is even a connection, Ray & Linda Buck ( Archer Angus) even told me that he has selected breed-leading Angus from several well-known cow families......And one of those cow families, well it is Anne Marie & the Bouthillette family ( Blackbird Farms).

Where can you find this beef? Well first off you can taste Archer Angus anywhere I am cooking, and several other fine restaurants from Maine all the way down to a few of us in Boston lucky enough to have developed this friendship.

Blackbird Farms Beef & Chicken is on my menu as well,  and south through Rhode Island you can find it at the best restaurants and retail shops in Rhode Island. To locate restaurants serving Blackbird Beef click here.  Blackbird also runs a seasonal farm stand that sells not only their beef, but eggs, chickens ( only chickens I use) turkey and other fine products produced in Rhode Island.  Cooking classes? Well they have those as well.

For a recipe that is by far the Best Burger I've ever had, follow the link below!! But you must promise to ONLY only use Blackbird Farms Ground Beef....

Tailgate Burger With Red Onion Jam & Tomato Vinaigrette

Gulf Of Maine Cod: Fuzzy Science or Fisherman Know Best?

Word on the docks is that the Federal Regulators are considering shutting down the Atlantic Cod fishery in the Gulf Of Maine?! WHAT WAS THAT?!!!

Could the unthinkable here in New England be more of a reality than a myth? One thing is for sure, scientists are extremely concerned about the stocks in the waters from North Cape Cod all the way up through Canada. Researchers say that the last assessment in 2008 showed the Gulf Of Maine cod stock was well on its way to recovery and if the pace was kept up, the fishery would reach its goal of rebuilding the code stock by 2014. But a recent assessment says those numbers could have been wrong. And that today the stock is only at about 20% of of the original rebuilding target.

Fisherman on the other hand.......well lets just say that they are claiming there nets are full, that there are plenty of cod in our waters. Which according to some scientists can mean one of two things, plenty of fish or plenty of fisherman who are very good at catching the cod that are in the waters.

I am torn to be honest with you, some years the news is great and I am excited to put cod back on my menus , celebrating a Massachusetts fishery that has such a prominent identity in our local history. Other years the news is bad, we pull cod off the menus, scrutinize every delivery and every vendor asking whether it was at least caught with true hook & line vs. a net. Wondering when you'll get the call from the media calling you out. You just don't know who to believe these days. Not that I feel any of them are lying, its just hard to believe anyone when the "facts" from each party is so far opposite of the other.

One thing is for sure, regulations with more restrictions than ever before are eminent, if the fishery if not a total shut down, NOAA is suggesting that it is too early to make that type of decision and they have many steps before it gets to a full closure. But some of my conversations with fisherman & women from Point Judith to Portsmouth NH are telling me that regulators have started to hint at 90% reduction in quotas that could possibly be in effect this year for the Gulf Of Maine. 90%! Talk about hurting the local economy and the lively hood of those who know nothing else but cod fishing.

As a chef I find it to be our responsibility to support the efforts of both scientists and the fisherman, but I ask one favor......Align yourselves and make decisions that will help EVERYONE. I don't ever want to see our local Cod fishery go away, I also don't want to see some of my friends loose their livelihood.

This is a perfect opportunity to support other local ground fish like Pollock & hake or other species like sea robin and pan fish, black sea bass and bluefish. In order to keep our fisherman and women fishing, we have to educate our guests on these other species, reduce our need for those species in danger and increase our desire for those species that are abundant and that can help keep our captains and crews STAY out on the water.

Captain Steve Arnold & Crew Home Safe, F/V Elizabeth Helen Lost To The Ocean

F/V Elizabeth Helen (right)

You've read about Wild Rhody llc.  for just over a year now.In my opinion the company has single handedly changed the way we think about where our seafood comes from her in New England.  Captain Steve Arnold has been one of the pioneering fisherman who have helped get Trace & Trust to where it is today, one of the best traceability systems to date for the seafood industry. Wild Rhody, his seafood company that he co-owns and operates with longtime friend & partner Captain Christopher Brown will be down one boat this year.

On Saturday while you and I were enjoying an "Indian summer" of sorts here in New England, Captain Steve was at the helm of the 55-foot Elizabeth Helen hauling his catch when he experienced rare tide and wind conditions causing the boat to tip on its side and sink. In a telephone conversation I had with Steve yesterday he credited the US Coast Guard with saving he and his crews life. On twitter Steve wrote " hell of a ride yesterday, you cant train for this shit".

In an Official Statement posted on the Wild Rhody llc. web page they couldn't have said it any better....

" This event reminds us that commercial fishing, like so many other professions, brings extreme risk and danger every day. In this instance, Captain Steve had both proper training and equipment on board that aided in his rescue. However, his calm demeanor and clear thinking is surely, what saved his life".


Please think about the men and women who are putting their lives on the line for your family to eat local foods.

My love of the ocean and the time I spent working on it reminds me of the violent and awful things the ocean can do.

We're all glad he and his crew are home safe.

Boston Wine Expo 2012 Vintners Dinner Series January 19, 2012 7:00pm

In conjunction with this years Boston Wine Expo, I am very pleased to announce that Alexander Valley Vineyards & 606 Congress will be teaming up to bring you a cant be missed wine dinner where we showcase local Modern New England cuisine with some of the vineyards finest selections. A great way to start your wine tasting weekend!
Seats can be reserved by calling 617-476-5606 and the cost of this amazing evening is only $60 plus tax & gratuity.

Alexander Valley Vineyards Vintners Dinner Menu

January 19, 2012 7:00pm,  606 Congress Restaurant,  Boston MA

Butter Poached Massachusetts Lobster Knuckles

house made gnocchi, tangerine, lobster roe, white truffle cream

Alexander Valley Vineyards Estate Chardonnay 2009 – Alexander Valley

Hill Farms Pork Belly Confit

butternut squash, baby spinach, hazelnut romesco sauce

Redemption Zinfandel 2007- Dry Creek Valley

Point Judith Skate Wing “Steak”

white coco bean & chorizo stew, Narragansett Creamery yogurt, dill
Alexander Valley Vineyards Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 – Alexander Valley

Archer Farms Grass Fed Sirloin

 turnips, carrot puree, bordelaise syrup, bone marrow

CYRUS “Bordeaux Blend” 2007 – Alexander Valley

Warm Chocolate Ganache Cake

candied red beets, freeze dried raspberry

Alexander Valley Vineyards Estate Merlot 2008 – Alexander Valley

$60 per person ++

Gallery of Recent Dishes

I apologize for the lack of posts latley. Here are some food shots of some of the dishes we are working on for the winter menu.....

Blue Fish Lox....Blox , smoked cod roe "ranch" , pickled cauliflower

1 Hour Farm Egg, Hopkins Southdowns Lamb Belly Bacon, Evas Kitchen Sink Greens, Mustard Vinaigrette

Bomster Scallops, Glazed Crispy Pork Belly, Pickled Cabbage, Violet Gastrique

Just for Fun......Foie Gras & Chocolate Lollipops!

Hopkins Southdowns Lamb Neck Ragu, Housemade Pasta, Pistachios, Narragansett Creamery Ricotta, Mint

Seafood NOT Turkey at the first Thanksgiving

Turkey is the star of the modern Thanksgiving feast,  but the true star should be the food that enabled the Pilgrims to survive, New England caught seafood!

In the only official written account of the first Thanksgiving, Turkey is not even mentioned. The feast consisted of cod, eels, and sea bass. Shellfish including clams, lobster, and mussels as well as duck, venison and vegetables like corn, beans and squash.

The following account is from “Mourt’s Relation,” mostly written by a Plymouth MA resident, Edward Winslow: “Squanto went at noon to fish for eels. At night he came home with as many as he could well lift in one hand, which our people were glad of. They were fat and sweet. He trod them out with his feet, and so caught them with his hands without any other instrument.”

While your planning your menu this year, think about paying homage to the first Thanksgiving with some New England seafood on your table.To get you going,  below is my  interpretation of what a Thanksgiving dish in 1621 could have been.

 Enjoy!

Cod & Clams in Parsley Sauce

4 servings:

4 6 -8 ounce Hook & Line Caught Cod fillets
16 littleneck or mahogany clams, soaked in salted water for 30 minutes and
drained
4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
3 tablespoons parsley, finely chopped
Extra virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper
1 ½ cups hot water
3 tablespoons flour
2 large Yukon gold or similar potatoes, very thinly sliced

-Bring 2 quarts of water to a boil, add salt and cook potatoes until softened.
Drain and set aside. Heat a large sauté pan over medium heat and add olive
oil sufficient to generously skim the pan. Place clams into pan, cover and cook
until clams open. Remove immediately and tent with foil to keep warm.
Add garlic and 2 tablespoons parsley to pan, sprinkle salt and pepper on both
sides of fish and add to pan. Sprinkle flour around fish and add water slowly,
whisking flour to prevent lumps. Turn heat to low and cook, spooning liquid
over fish to cook top of fillet. Continue for 10 – 12 minutes until fish is just
done. Slice into fish – it should barely be opaque. Remove fish to heated
plates, and add clams and potatoes to pan to reheat. If sauce is thick, add hot
water until just thin.
Arrange clams and potatoes around fish, divide sauce among plates and
sprinkle remaining parsley over fillets.
Serve this with a dry white wine such as a Sancerre or a full bodied Sauvignon Blanc, either domestic or from New Zealand. This recipe takes some extra time and effort, but results in a memorable meal for you and your guests.

Happy Thanksgiving from the Garcia Family,
Rich, Nicole, Bry, Savanna, Summer & Adrianne ( the dog)

Yellow Tail Flounder: The Controversy

Its 4:35pm on a Monday afternoon and my email alert goes off on my phone. Wild Rhody fisherman sending the weeks projected landings. Small selection this week.  Fluke, Yellowtail Flounder , Skate.  The excitement of seeing the first of the season Yellowtail landings is always welcomed. Delicate, firm, white fleshed and sweet the yellowtail flounder is a New England Winter delicacy. Fish are no more than 2lbs, have a beautiful yellow tail and............ I'm torn
The Yellowtail flounder stock in many parts of the Northeast is over fished, on many red lists and no secret the fishery was in need of a little TLC.
Lucky for me in 2010 NOAA announced new measures intended to end overfishing and continue the rebuilding of Northeast groundfish such as cod and flounder.
For the first time ever, there was a cap on the amount of all groundfish of any species that are permitted to be caught. In addition, there were measures to mitigate if the catch limits are exceeded. These measures have provided some of the strongest safeguards to date for recovering groundfish stocks.
In addition to the new caps,  fishing vessels were now able fish with others as a group, or “sector.” Sectors, which are voluntary and formed each year are given a portion of the total available groundfish catch.
Fishermen who participate in fishing sectors have more control over where and how they want to fish in order to target healthy fish stocks and avoid the stocks in the worst condition and the fisherman must agree to stop fishing once the sector catches its allotment of fish.

I am fortunate to have developed relationships with fisherman who believe that by fishing in sectors they are fishing responsibly and part of the solutionn to help rebuild Yellowtail stock and continue to fish and provide for their families at the same time.
This is the information that's not  out in the open, making decisions to buy this species seems like the worst crime on earth on the surface. I do allot of research, ask allot of questions and get advice from those in the field both on the scientific side and fishing side. I feel confident that those I choose to support, fish responsibly. For me knowing that under the "sector" fishing method the fisherman are targeting healthy stocks by design and allowing poor stocks time to recover I'm comfortable buying some of these beauties. My guests and I will enjoy a New England delicacy for a few days. 100% traceable, fished responsibly and by far some of the  highest quality fish in the city of Boston.

New Orleans: Chefs Collaborative National Summit 2011

Something happened to me in New Orleans during the Chefs Collaborative National Summit. Problem is I don’t know what it is just yet. What I can tell you is that I fell in love with the city more than any other place I have ever been. Some might say that’s because of the “Bourbon Street Buzz” but although that was fun, its not the reason. The architecture and history remind me of walking through the streets of Logrono, Spain the capital city of Rioja. Every time the wind would change direction you would get a new aroma drifting by that you just want to follow as if you were in a cartoon looking for that apple pie in the window. I can close my eyes right now and smell the distinct aroma of the French Market, the coffee shops and even the smoke filled Jazz bars had a distinct aroma that fit the venue. The sounds of music, all types of music from every type of bar you can imagine filled the streets well into the nights.

The group of people from all over the country assembled for the 2011 Chefs Collaborative National Summit was amazing. Chefs, restaurateurs, farmers, ranchers, fisherman, conservation and sustainability experts all gathered to learn, share and have fun in a city with so much to offer the rest of the country. What was very humbling to me was the sense of pride that I sensed from every local chef that cooked for us during the 3 day non stop feast of some of the most unique and delicious food I have had in a long time. No foams, sous vide or multi-level presentations, just local chefs cooking the food they love to eat. It was if they each told a story about themselves with every bite of every meal. These chefs all want you to feel the pride they feel when they cook. When they speak they speak from the soul. They make you feel the passion they have for their culture, their food traditions and each other. It was such an emotional experience for me personally to hear every chef, and I mean every chef talk about the other chefs in the city and not themselves. No competition, no egos, just so real that I will forever strive to emulate these amazing people who cook because they just plain love to cook.

Another almost surreal experience was being able to walk up to some chefs that I have looked up to for years and just say thank you for their inspiration. Chefs like Michael Leviton and Sam Hayward, Susan Spicer and many more are so humble yet have a presence that will always inspire me when I put my chef jacket on.

The Chefs Collaborative team did such an amazing job putting this together, the discussions, demos and networking opportunities were all very informative and I feel much more prepared to work on some of the projects I have been wanting to start but haven’t had the proper knowledge to get the ball rolling.

The thing Ill remember most about this trip though…….the company I had with me. A small group of us that just thought alike to the point of being somewhat creepy. We had remarkable conversations about each others kitchens, projects and lives. The interest in every little conversation was too a little daunting but fascinating at the same time. A connection between people who understand each other’s labors in this profession and can work through solutions with each other all while having such a great experience.

When you first log onto the Chefs Collaborative web site the first thing you read is... Chefs Collaborative is a national chef network that's changing the sustainable food landscape using the power of connections, education and responsible buying decisions. but in reality its so much more...By reading and thinking about each of the guiding principles (which you can read by clicking here) Chefs Collaborative is a way of life...a way of doing business...and most importantly its a family of people from around the country who are all working towards the same goals.

As I finish this up I guess I do know what happened to me in New Orleans, I became a better cook and a better chef and I hope that you will consider becoming a part of this great organization and share your experiences and best practices to achieve the vision.

Our vision: As a result of our work, sustainable practices will be second nature for every chef in the United States